I'm having trouble keeping track

XEBOOK assembly line in full effect. Rev 2 improvements: • SMD manufactured button bar (no more hand building on perf board). • SMD manufactured power and management board (no more hand woring convoluted wire harness). • CNC milled hinge interlock (better friction and longevity). • Improved FJC inspired “cable management” 😆

oh god.. i know.. ANd its even worse.. its a daiisywheel letter quality. Not even a dot matrix. apparently thats all they were used for.. printing and spreadsheets.

they had lots of good test equiment and o'scopes!

😂 wow I finally got certified

Fun day and kept me out of trouble all weekend 😂 In addition to the KayPro I picked up a mint Shugart 8” Floppy drive. Will be fun to try to get that functioning. Kaypro popped and went up in smoke 5 mins after powering up and the vertical deflection kicked the bucket 2 mins before that. But after some TLC and a few hours wrestling with making CP/M disks, it’s a beauty!

They’ve phased out Fujinet PC and now have a Fujinet-emulator-bridge. That’s the terminal in the middle. So the process now is it build frujinet-firmware and then run that bridge. Can’t get stereo pokey to work for some reason. I’ve ticked the stereo checkbox in Altirra but no luck.

Nice interview, Now we need a southern comfort bbs.

Wait what!!? How did you get the injection modling done? How did you make the inverted molds? Is there some way I can convert my model so it is split in half and inverted as a mold? I need to know more abou this!

Yea it was a couple years ago when I was looking and none of them were in working order.

For archiving’s sake here’s a photo of the insides showcasing my cable management 😂

cool! I was just asking a few days ago how you guys were doing ascii art.

I’ve been using Hatchbox mostly. It’s been good up to now. Now suddenly I have to set the first and last layer flow ratio to .98 instead of 1 to get it to be solid filled smooth. Another concern is that warping issue. I had been storing my OSI Portable in the shop out back for about 8 months and the bezel where the lcd cutouts are was all watped and also some other areas. I had to reprint all that stuff. It couldn’t possible have gotten THAT hot in there. It’s like a mini house with insulation and everything. Maybe 100 max in the summer?!

Well dammit I just got a space heater for the shop out back. I need to get my moneys worth before it warms up!

I think Martin at Brewing Acadamy still has some. I almost bought one from him his prices aren’t bad. I got my NOS LCD panel from him also for about $60

Cool thanks for the input. I printed another with more gap between the Atari logo and the grid lines and I don’t think I like it as much so I’ll stick with this one!

Alright here’s how the new lid came out. What yallz think? I guess it’s better than just blank 🤔 ** dammit the spacing is off between the grill lines! One more round! 😂 🤦‍♂️ ** I don’t know if it’s cuz the weather and my filament is wet but I had to tweak the flow rate on the first and last layers to get it to fill in smoothly without gaps. Weird. It’s been flawless til now.

I paid about twice that a couple years ago. Is yours a STacy 2? That’s what mine is but it has the memory upgrade to make it a 4 I think.

Well it’s been a fiasco. Start print, wait 5 hours, flaws in print. Rinse and repeat. Yes I’ve been eyeing the ST Book for years. I think I’ve seen two come up in eBay in the last 5 years. The one I just got those snaps from off eBay looks like it’s in pristine condition. Yeah I can’t justify the thousands to have one when they do crop up. I think I payed close to $1,000 for my STacy and that’s my limit! Although I’m pretty sure I’ve spent more than that on this frikn XE Book! 😂

I havent been happy with the blank lid surface and just found a video of an STBook where he closes the lid so I got a good look at how they did the logo on it. So I am taking another shot at embedding a logo on it. I tried a Fuji in the center already kindof like the Apple logo on the Macbooks but that seem down the middle just made it look bad. Heres what I am going to try next... I'll see how it looks in 10 hours when the printing finishes... Heres what the sirface of the STBook looks like: And heres my version: WHat do you think? I hope it doesnt end up looking like KRAP